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»Mountain Climbing Expeditions

HUASCARAN NATIONAL PARK.

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The Huascaran National Park is one of the most outstanding conservation parks in Peru, due to its landscapes that are full of peaks, lakes, canyons, torrents and waterfalls. Inside its borders, it can be observed the whole Cordillera Blanca and seven peaks of more than 6,000m height. They constitute one of the main international focuses for climbers and mountaineers.

It was stated as a National Park on July 1, 1975 with a surface of 340,000 ha and a length of 158 km. This National Park includes parts of the following provinces: Recuay, Huaraz, Carhuaz, Yungay, Huaylas, Pomabamba, Mariscal Luzuriaga, Huari, Corongo, Sihuas and Bolognesi. This park has also been stated as a Biosphere reservation and as a World Heritage Site by the UNESCO. The park territory is very uneven. It has snowy summits, which altitudes vary between 5000 and 6768 msnm. It also has gullies, that are deeply encased because of the fluvioglacial erosion, and a great number of lagoons. Inside the borders of the park, there are 663 glaciers that are distributed throughout 180 km, from the Tuco peak in the south up to Champará in the north. Regarding its climate, there are two very well defined seasons:

. The dry season, from April to September, becoming worse between the months of June and August; and

. The wet season, from October to May, which highest rainfall is between January and March. Its flora is countless and beautiful, including important groups of Puya Raimondi. In its fauna, there are brown brockets, tarucas, spectacled bears, vicuñas, pumas, foxes, vizcachas, weasels, Andean mountain cats, opossums, hog-nosed skunks, etc. There are also a great number of birds, predominating ducks, American coots and hummingbirds.

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SOME OF THE EXTREME SPORTS IN THE CORDILLERA BLANCA AND CALLEJON DE HUAYLAS.

DETAILED ITINERARY

. Mountaineering: The glaciers of the Cordillera Blanca constitute one of the most important world scenarios for ice climbing. Mountaineering can be practiced the whole year but it is better to do it during the months of May and September.

. Trekking: The pre-hispanic paths offer excellent opportunities for trekking during the whole year. On the way, it can be observed varied flora, fauna, impressive snowy mountains, gullies and deep canyons, archaeological sites and several typical villages. There are several routes that last from one day to three weeks.

. Rock climbing: The granite belt that goes round the glaciers of the Cordillera Blanca (White Mountain range) constitutes the suitable place for practicing this sport. There are walls from 100 m to 1000 m of height that have many kinds of technical difficulties to get through. There is an odd scenario for this sport called Rocódromo de Monterrey.

. Alpine skiing: It consists on slipping from the glaciers. The most favorable ones for practicing this sport are: Pastoruri, Copa, Hualcán, Huascaran and Vallunaraju. These snowcapped mountains are ideal for practicing the slide on snow (also known as siquiesqui) and for making snowmen.

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PEAKS OF CORDILLERA BLANCA AND HUAYHUASH

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EASY CLIMBING PEAKS WITH TREEKING -CORDILLERA BLANCA
NAME VALLEY OF LOCATION DURATION ALTITUD SEASON GRADE
HATUN MONTEPUNCU CORUP 4 DAYS 5415 M. MAY-SEP EASY
HUARAPASCA CARPA EASY 2 DAYS 5530 M. APRIL-OCT EASY
ISHINKA ISHINKA 3 DAYS 5534 M. MAY - OCT EASY
MAPARAJU QUILLCAYHUANCA 4 DAYS 5326 M. MAY- SEP EASY
PASTORIRI PACHACOTO 1 DAYS 5220 M. APRIL-NOV EASY
PISCO LLANGANUCO 3 DAYS 5752 M. MAY-OCT EASY
RIMA RIMA LLACA 2 DAYS 5203 M. APRIL-NOV EASY
URUS ISHINCA 3 DAYS 5420 M. MAY-OCT EASY
VALLUNARAJU LLACA 3 DAYS 5686 M. MAY-OCT EASY
WAMASHRAJU RAJUCOLTA 3 DAYS 5434 M. APRIL.OCT EASY

 

MODERATE CLIMBING PEAKS -CORDILLERA BLANCA
NAME VALLEY OF LOCATION DURATION ALTITUD SEASON GRADE
AQUILPO AQUILPO 4 DAYS 5550 M. MAY-SEP MODERATE
CAULLARAJU PACHACOTO 3 DAYS 5597 M. MAY-SEP & MODERATE
COPA LEGIA 4 DAYS 6173 M. MAY -SEP MODERATE
CHAMPARA COILLURQOCHA 7 DAYS 5878 M. JUN- SEP MODERATE
CHAQUIAKRAJU ULTA 4 DAYS 5512 M. JUN-SEP MODERATE
HUALCAN CHUKCHUN 4 DAYS 6122 M. JUN-SEP MODERATE
PARIA PARON 4 DAYS 5500 M. JUN-SEP MODERATE
RARIA RARIA 3 DAYS 5576 M. MAY-SEP MODERATE
SAN JUAN SHALLAP 4 DAYS 5884 M. JUN-SEP MODERATE
TOCLLARAJU ISHINCA 4 DAYS 6032 M. E JUN-SEP MODERAT
URHUASHRAJU LLANGANUCO 5 DAYS 5544 M. JUN-SEP MODERATE
YANAPACHA LLANGANUCO 5 DAYS 5393 M. MAY-SEP MODERATE

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DIFICULT CLIMBING PEAKS -CORDILLERA BLANCA
NAME VALLEY OF LOCATION DURATION ALTITUD SEASON GRADE
ALPAMAYO CEDROS 8 DAYS 5957 M. JUN-SEPT DIFICULT
ARTESONRAJU PARON 5 DAYS 6025 M. MAY-SEP DIFICULT
CARAZ PARON 6 DAYS 6020 M. MAY -SEP DIFICULT
CAYESH QUILLCAYHUANCA 8 DAYS 5424 M. JUN- SEP DIFICULT
CHACRARAJU LLANGANUCO 8 DAYS 6108 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
CHINCHEY HONDA 7 DAYS 6309 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
CHOPICALQUI LLANGANUCO 5 DAYS 6354 M. MAY-SEP DIFICULT
HUANDOY NORTE LLANGANUCO 6 DAYS 6393 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
HUASCARAN MUSHO 6 DAYS 6768 M. MAY-SEP DIFICULT
HUATSAN RAJUCOLTA 6 DAYS 6395 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
OXSHAPALCA LLACA 6 DAYS 5831 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
PALCARAJU COJUP 5 DAYS 6272 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
PUCARANRA COJUP-HONDA 7 DAYS 6156 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
PUCAHIRCA SANTA CRUZ 7 DAYS 6038 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
QUITARAJU SANTA CRUZ-CEDROS 7 DAYS 6036 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
RANRAPALCA ISHINCA-COJUP 6 DAYS 6162 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
RATAQUENUA HONDA 5 DAYS 5338 M. T JUN-SEP DIFICUL
SANTA CRUZ SANTA CRUZ 8 DAYS 6241 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
TAULLIRAJU SANTA CRUZ 8 DAYS 5830 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
ULTA ULTA 7 DAYS 5782 M. MAY-SEP DIFICULT

(*) Included one of them as training before Climbing Ausangate Mountain.

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HUAYHUASH MOUNTAIN RANGE.

The spectacular Cordillera Huayhuash, located south of Cordillera Blanca (White Mountain Range), in the Central Peruvian Andes, in spite of being only 40 Km long, has become a favorite for both trekking and to adventure walks. It is the south section of the western chain of North Andes, located between the departments of Ancash and Huánuco, to the southeast of the Cordillera Blanca (White Mountain Range). It is located at 78 kms. From Huaraz. The geographical coordinates of this mountain range are: 10º16'01" south latitude and 76º54'09" west longitude. It has 40 kms. Length, and is conformed by eternal snowy mountains, outstanding among those the Yerupajá 6,634m.a.s.l./ 21,709ft., Siulá 6,536m.a.s.l./ 21,443ft and Sarapo 6,127m.a.s.l./20,154ft.It has similar characteristics to the Himalaya Mountains. It was declared as National Tourist Reserve for the conservation of ecological and archaeological resources of the area.

Many mountaineers hold this 180 km trekking route to be the worlds hardest, longest and most spectacular, beating existing routes in Nepal, the Himalayas and Africa. One of the reasons for its reputation is that the average altitude during the trail is aprox. 4,300m.a.s.l./14,107ft. The most direct access to this Cordillera is through the town of Chiquián located at 2,400m.a.s.l./7,872ft. The capital of the district of Bolognesi which can be reached by a road that leads to Huaraz. This is the starting and finishing point of the main trekking route, with two options: one that runs for 14 days, and the second for 16 days. Both leave from the city of Chiquián leading for Llamac, and the entire Cordillera loop around. The advisable season is between April and October. The roads and itineraries are considered as the most difficult trekking route of the world.

The access facilities and logistics are more difficult in this area, in comparison with the White Mountain range. If you hire the services of Mountain Guides, from Huaraz or Lima, you will get the solution to many problems.

MODERATE CLIMBING PEAKS -CORDILLERA BLANCA
NAME VALLEY OF LOCATION DURATION ALTITUD SEASON GRADE
DIABLO NUDO PUNTA TAPUSH 13 DAYS 5423 M. MAY-SEP EASY
LEON DORMIDO PUNTA CUYOC 10 DAYS 5300 M. MAY-SEP EASY

 

MODERATE CLIMBING PEAKS -CORDILLERA BLANCA
NAME VALLEY OF LOCATION DURATION ALTITUD SEASON GRADE
RASAC JAHUAQOCHA 10 DAYS 6040 M. MAY-SEP MODERATE
TORO MITUQOCHA 10 DAYS 5830 M. MAY-SEP MODERATE

 

MODERATE CLIMBING PEAKS -CORDILLERA BLANCA
NAME VALLEY OF LOCATION DURATION ALTITUD SEASON GRADE
CARNICERO CALINCA 12 DAYS 5644 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
JIRISHANCA JAHUAQOCHA 12 DAYS 6094 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
NINASHANCA MATACANCHA 12 DAYS 65807 M. MAY -SEP DIFICULT
PUSCANTURPA VICONGA 12 DAYS 5544 M. JUN- SEP DIFICULT
RONDOY RONDOY 12 DAYS 5879 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
SARAPO JURAO 12 DAYS 6127 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT
YERUPAJA JAHUAQOCHA 10 DAYS 6634 M. MAY-SEP DIFICULT
YERUPAJA CHICO JAHUAQOCHA 8 DAYS 6121 M. JUN-SEP DIFICULT

(*) Included one of them as training before Climbing Ausangate Mountain.

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